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Alloy Rad, lower temp fan switch

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Post  Almondo74 07/11/11, 07:24 pm

has anyone brought 1 of those ally rads on ebay, from china or aus....?

was thinking of getting 1 or a eg civic 3core ally rad and have it modified.

does anyone know the thread size of the fan switch?, im looking for a lower temperature one, seen low temp civic switchs but id imagine the threads are different......
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Post  dominator 07/11/11, 07:34 pm

cant be any worse than the srd rad, have a word with strider, he`s from that way, maybe he can shed some light on the quality
never heard of a suzuki low temp switch
have a look on some motorfactor sites, some of them have the thread type etc

gary

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Post  Gedis 07/11/11, 08:04 pm

i got one of ebay, it's like double the thickness, but a wee bit shorter, no problems so far with it

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Post  Almondo74 07/11/11, 09:34 pm

striders from malaysia not china, bit like asking us questions about germany lol.

the ebay 1's look like the srd rads in the photo just they charge 3times the price.

i didnt mean suzuki actually making 1 i thought that mayb a switch off another car will fit which might have a lower temp
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Post  stevieh6 08/11/11, 12:26 pm

you gotta link for the rad? i havent seen them
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Post  SUZUKI ROCKS 08/11/11, 10:30 pm

Silly question boys but i gotta ask Embarassed

Whats the benefit of an ally rad? Is it just lighter or does it cool the water better? Neutral Embarassed
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Post  hobo 08/11/11, 10:35 pm

fuck knows but dunno if its just me but i've had stones go through 3 of my rads good old rad weld Very Happy
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Post  stevieh6 09/11/11, 11:53 pm

ali disperses the heat faster than stock, hence cools more efficiently
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Post  Gedis 10/11/11, 12:07 am


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Post  Almondo74 10/11/11, 07:31 am

SUZUKI ROCKS wrote:Silly question boys but i gotta ask Embarassed

Whats the benefit of an ally rad? Is it just lighter or does it cool the water better? Neutral Embarassed

As sed above, lighter , disapates heat quicker and looks better.

yh thats the one i was thinking about gedis
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Post  gtpswift 10/11/11, 10:45 am

well im not convinced.
aluminium actually absorbs heat at a slower rate then copper its dissipation is slightly better but absorption vs dissipation co-oefficient is arguably worse , it is lighter and stronger and as such the tubes can be bigger sizes without risk of balooning, which increases the cooling capacity but the experience rule of thumb is an alloy radiator needs to be 30 percent larger than a copper core, which in turn has more water to fill it which is no bad thing but in turn this is heavier. a cheap aluminium radiator may only have friction fit fins, rendering them only 30-50 percent efficient at heat transfer (the fin is a secondary cooling device its the bar which contributes the most) where as the expensive ones are have furnace fused fin and bar construction aiding in heat transfer.
as for the finish of radiators black is ther most efficient, most OEM radiators are black not alloy silver, another reason why aftermarket radiators etc are larger than necessary to overcome the inneficiencies for the sake of fashion.
Alloy can also suffer higher corrosion co-eficiencies especially in applications with alloy engines...interesting
Alloy has its place no doubt, but at a cost. The debate will rage Im guessing here int he UK with cool summers a cheapo aftermarket alloy radiator will work OK

GTP

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Post  dominator 10/11/11, 01:36 pm

in my experience workin with ali it takes longer to heat up but it keeps the heat for so much longer compared to say steel, dont realy work with copper so cant realy coment on that
On another note iv been having cooling issues since it started getting cooler, she just wont warm properly, 1st time I noticed I had to drive to waymouth, bout 30 miles from me but its all A roads and the needle didnt get above 1/4 way up, so I pulled over, left it running and it came up halfway like normal but start driving again and down it goes, iv flushed and bled the system twice and its still doin it scratch

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Post  gtpswift 10/11/11, 01:46 pm

what thermostat is in it?

GTP

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Post  dominator 10/11/11, 04:08 pm

Std uk type which im sure is the lower temp 1
But the thing is this is the 2nd winter this engine will be in since I built it, it was fine last year, thats why im a bit confused about it all

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Post  gtpswift 10/11/11, 04:37 pm

Standard dash gauge?
anything else change since last winter?
is the thermostat stuck open?

GTP

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Post  garndi 10/11/11, 05:34 pm

gtpswift wrote:well im not convinced.
aluminium actually absorbs heat at a slower rate then copper its dissipation is slightly better but absorption vs dissipation co-oefficient is arguably worse , it is lighter and stronger and as such the tubes can be bigger sizes without risk of balooning, which increases the cooling capacity but the experience rule of thumb is an alloy radiator needs to be 30 percent larger than a copper core, which in turn has more water to fill it which is no bad thing but in turn this is heavier. a cheap aluminium radiator may only have friction fit fins, rendering them only 30-50 percent efficient at heat transfer (the fin is a secondary cooling device its the bar which contributes the most) where as the expensive ones are have furnace fused fin and bar construction aiding in heat transfer.
as for the finish of radiators black is ther most efficient, most OEM radiators are black not alloy silver, another reason why aftermarket radiators etc are larger than necessary to overcome the inneficiencies for the sake of fashion.
Alloy can also suffer higher corrosion co-eficiencies especially in applications with alloy engines...interesting
Alloy has its place no doubt, but at a cost. The debate will rage Im guessing here int he UK with cool summers a cheapo aftermarket alloy radiator will work OK

GTP

What he said ^

I have seen alloy radiator cores 'balooning' so I don't think there that strong or maybe it was just yumcha crap.

I don't think there all that for cooling either, but they 100% look the part in today's fashion market.
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Post  dominator 10/11/11, 06:07 pm

gtpswift wrote:Standard dash gauge?
anything else change since last winter?
is the thermostat stuck open?

GTP

Std dials, thermo worked fine when I did the last flush
The only difference is I put some new vacuum tubes in and around the inlet mani, but I cant see that making a difference

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Post  gtpswift 10/11/11, 06:12 pm

Only thing I can think of is the thermo is stuck open and its not letting it get a chance to warm the water before flowing into the radiator. or the gauge has malfunctioned. grab youself a thermometer and shove it in the radiator opening and test for sure what temps the gauge is reading.
air in the system might fool the sensor but its not that common to have air bubbles that big...but you never know

GTP

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Post  Almondo74 10/11/11, 06:33 pm

i took the thermostat out of mine and it still gets warm in about 10 miles.
i want an ally rad for looks but i dont want cooling issues at the same time :/
but id fit a better fan with more pull
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Post  garndi 11/11/11, 12:56 am

Almondo74 wrote:i took the thermostat out of mine and it still gets warm in about 10 miles.
i want an ally rad for looks but i dont want cooling issues at the same time :/
but id fit a better fan with more pull

Be careful... The fan is really important, most issues are due to fitting (pure sh!t) aftermarket fans that claim their the t!ts. They just don't pull/push the volume of air that a standard fan can.

Can't go past standard car fans!.
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Post  InstantCustard 11/11/11, 06:41 am

An alloy rad is better than a cheap steel rad, a copper cored rad is better than an alloy rad.
Simples.

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Post  dominator 11/11/11, 10:21 am

gtpswift wrote:Only thing I can think of is the thermo is stuck open and its not letting it get a chance to warm the water before flowing into the radiator. or the gauge has malfunctioned. grab youself a thermometer and shove it in the radiator opening and test for sure what temps the gauge is reading.
air in the system might fool the sensor but its not that common to have air bubbles that big...but you never know

GTP

Then your as confused as I am gtp, I drove her into work today and it was fine, I doubt itl be the same on the way back

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Post  Almondo74 11/11/11, 06:55 pm



Be careful... The fan is really important, most issues are due to fitting (pure sh!t) aftermarket fans that claim their the t!ts. They just don't pull/push the volume of air that a standard fan can.

Can't go past standard car fans!. [/quote]

i cant say that my fans even came on in ages but i avoid sitting in traffic with the engine running, i only ever drive it at night and the roads are quiet down here.

i found the cfm of a standard rad ages ago cant remember now, but id only buy 1 that was higher.
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Post  gtpswift 12/11/11, 08:51 am

If by CFM you mean the cooling capacity of the radiator (nornmally measured in watts) I have found it very difficult to get this information out or aftermarket radiator manufacturers, I need a seriously uprated radiator for the escort race car with water cooled turbo in australia. somthing they just dont know, If you meant CFM of the fan then ignore this post.

GTP

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Post  Almondo74 12/11/11, 09:25 am

yh i ment fan
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