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Coilovers / bumpstops

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Coilovers  /    bumpstops Empty Coilovers / bumpstops

Post  Almondo74 30/12/11, 08:07 pm

Im going to make some coilovers as per :

http://www.redlinegti.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=36560&sid=83b4e098e6c2604da0b7d65656930679&start=40


i want to buy new bumpstops but what size, length diameter, material etc.

any links would be appriciated ...

also iv heard that 200sx camber top mounts fit (with enlarged holes), is that correct...?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-200SX-SR20-PILLOW-BALL-CAMBER-TOP-MOUNTS-3-B-/150659441359?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item231400a2cf

this is mainly aimed at people that have done it not hear say please Smile

thanks

Ross
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Post  dominator 31/12/11, 09:52 am

Im sure you can get poly bumpstops that are good
As for the top mounts, iv got the noltec allway adjustable mounts which im now sure are actualy for an sx
I got them years ago, always found it strange I had to drill out the main nut bits, and the whole mount didnt look right in the turret, not square
If your goin for the sx camber only mounts you will have to re-drill the 3 holes in the top susp turret so the adjustment is square to the chassis, it will prob mess up the top brace aswell, depends which one you are using, and drill out the bits where the main top nut goes
When you get those mounts on the steering is feather light, its amazing, until you fit a proper diff Wink

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Post  JDOG 31/12/11, 12:45 pm

I dont even use bump stops on mine

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Post  Almondo74 31/12/11, 01:22 pm

dominator wrote:Im sure you can get poly bumpstops that are good
As for the top mounts, iv got the noltec allway adjustable mounts which im now sure are actualy for an sx
I got them years ago, always found it strange I had to drill out the main nut bits, and the whole mount didnt look right in the turret, not square
If your goin for the sx camber only mounts you will have to re-drill the 3 holes in the top susp turret so the adjustment is square to the chassis, it will prob mess up the top brace aswell, depends which one you are using, and drill out the bits where the main top nut goes
When you get those mounts on the steering is feather light, its amazing, until you fit a proper diff Wink

yh but a poly bumpstop would have to be shorter than standard right? as it doesnt compress as much..?

o right i see, where did u get ur noltec 1's from gary??

thanks Ross
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Post  swifty 01/01/12, 01:34 pm

I'm going to make these coilovers up using konis shocks as for top mounts compbrake do swift pillow ball mounts but if you want camber ones the do universal ones just gota get the right pcd or on eBay you can get universal camber top mounts just gotta drill them to suit chasis
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Post  Almondo74 01/01/12, 03:45 pm

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Post  Almondo74 01/01/12, 03:49 pm

swifty wrote:I'm going to make these coilovers up using konis shocks as for top mounts compbrake do swift pillow ball mounts but if you want camber ones the do universal ones just gota get the right pcd or on eBay you can get universal camber top mounts just gotta drill them to suit chasis

yh i seen the compbrake 1's the other night and all the different universal ebay 1's, plates with pre drilled holes that u rotate around or just plain and drill you own holes. realistically ill probably never touch it so
ill probably just get the compbrake 1's with -1 deg camber. seems the easier option Smile
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Post  dominator 01/01/12, 06:40 pm

Got my noltecs from ssgti.com back when I had more money than sense
I wouldnt worry bout them, for the cash the sx mounts are the better option all for the sake of drillin a few holes
I was goin to go for some uni compbrake mount
Think theyr called concentric or summin like that basicly thebearing is offset so you can get more camber or a little camber and castor, but they are 100 odd quid so the sx win every time for me
Theres universal bumpstops, I dont fink they are made of the same stuff as the susp bits

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Post  gtpswift 01/01/12, 08:53 pm

for bump stops you want a compliant but absorbtive material. Much like the original stuff!. Nolathane or polyeurethans or similar will be too hard, have no progression and should not be used unless designed as a bump stop. last thing you want under extreme compression is a spring going infinite rate as the solid bumpstop strikes causing unecessary overload.
Im not sure why we are talking about this...its a no brainer.
GTP

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Post  Almondo74 01/01/12, 11:45 pm

gtpswift wrote:for bump stops you want a compliant but absorbtive material. Much like the original stuff!. Nolathane or polyeurethans or similar will be too hard, have no progression and should not be used unless designed as a bump stop. last thing you want under extreme compression is a spring going infinite rate as the solid bumpstop strikes causing unecessary overload.
Im not sure why we are talking about this...its a no brainer.
GTP

i know what your sayin, but what i mean is would i need to cut the standard bumpstop shorter, buy a new shorter 1 or just leave it alone........
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Post  Almondo74 02/01/12, 12:11 am

dominator wrote:
I was goin to go for some uni compbrake mount
Think theyr called concentric or summin like that basicly thebearing is offset so you can get more camber or a little camber and castor, but they are 100 odd quid so the sx win every time for me

This type of thing.
http://www.compbrake.co.uk/Suspension-Acc-39-s/Top-Mounts/PLAIN-ADJ-TOP-HAT-DOWN-TOP-MOUNTS-PAIR-/prod_952.html

sx - i dont really want to have to drill new holes as i powder coated my strut brace and i dont want to drill more holes in it where it could flake from.
are they in completly different pllaces or just like 3mm over?
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Post  dominator 02/01/12, 09:46 am

Those are the ones but you need the swift pcd and to adjust them looks annoying
The sx mounts need to be spun round alot, the new holes will have to be almost centre between the original holes
For the least hassle the ones from comp made for the swift with just the 3 holes and -1deg camber
And try to find some sort of boots to cover the bottom part of the bearings for road use

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Post  gtpswift 02/01/12, 10:51 am

how much do you intend on lowering your car?
if its >40 mm then the standard bump stops will be ok
more than that then a redesign is needed. anything lower than when the suspension arms are pointing up at the outside is too far for good handling, pointing down slightly is desirable. at this low the struts will be too long and will make the car to sit on the bump stops which is bad for handling ok for looks. plus by this stage any 15 inch wheel style is rubbing badly on the front and rear arches anyway...
So without a suspension redesign and a welder id say cut the lower/smaller diameter bump stop section and keep an eye on them over time.
for a track car you want about 40mm travel for a road car double it plus some so with track car suspension onthe road the bump stops and foot valves will suffer unless its designed holistically..
as for redrilling parts. if your worried about powder coating are you really serious about doing the right thing.
plan, plan and plan again then act holistically!

GTP

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